When: September 2015
Where: Capri, Italy
Stayed: Capri Tiberio Palace
We stayed at Capri Tiberio Palace, a contemporary, boutique design hotel tucked away from the bustling Piazzetta. We loved the thoughtfully styled details in every corner, and each hallway felt like a gallery in a modern art museum. There was a delicious breakfast each morning, and a peaceful, shallow pool with a beautiful view over the town.
We really enjoyed the property as a whole, but we were very disappointed with our room. Being a five star hotel, and paying five star rates, we were less than enthused that our terrace looked out onto an active construction zone. We had to keep the curtains drawn for privacy, and with no other natural light in the dimly lit room, it was by far the least impressive place we have chosen to stay. My recommendation to management, which I voiced upon check-out, was to either offer discounted rates on those active-construction rooms, or to at least provide guests with a disclaimer upon booking. All of that being said, I would still recommend the property, as all other aspects were beautiful, and the location was perfect.
After wandering all over the island by foot, and seeing many other hotels firsthand, we would without a doubt choose to stay at La Scalinatella the next time we visit. Not only was the location ideal, but the property was downright STUNNING.
We only had the weekend in Capri, and it was more than enough time to fall in love with the island and to wish we could stay longer. We took the Alicost ferry over from Amalfi (super easy)!, and arrived in Marina Grande a short while later.
My number once piece of advice for Capri would be to get the &#@! out of Marina Grande as soon as you pull in. It is CRAZY town, and completely, wildly different than what we experienced across the rest of the island.
We love to explore places by foot, and choose to walk just about everywhere. I love the pace at which you can stop, look around, and take in all the details – it’s the best way to experience someplace new, in my opinion. In many places, local residents have looked at us like we are absolute nuts for traversing this way. So we thought nothing of it when our porter (who came to collect our luggage from the marina, a service I recommend if you are not going straight to your hotel), looked at us in disbelief when we told him “no grazie” to a taxi.
Little did we know that the google map I had printed out at home, directing us to Lido del Faro, was actually as intense of a hike as the one to Ravello. Our porter’s disbelief quickly made sense as we panted up the Phoenician Steps, ha! So incredibly beautiful, and we would definitely take that route again – but next time, I would skip the maxi dress and bring more than a
half empty half full bottle of water.
As soon as we reached Anacapri, we slurped down the most delicious lemon granitas! They were scooped out of a big, silver tin, and had fresh squeezed orange juice poured on top. I wish I could remember the name of the cafe, but it was right in Piazza Vittoria, with an orange awning.
We wandered by the cutest shops and storefronts, and when I saw all of the handmade, Caprese sandals, I thought they would be the perfect souvenir. I chose a pair for me and a pair for my sister, and we picked them up at the end of the day, gelato in hand.
The homemade google map brought us on a long, winding walk all the way down towards the Blue Grotto. There was so much color and beauty along the way, and I couldn’t believe all the cacti. I also fell in love with a car.
When we got there, we weren’t quite sure where Lido del Faro was. [insert internet-less head scratching]. We stood in front of Il Riccio, (where we had initially tried to make a reservation), but they were closed for a wedding. There was another beach club next door which was not Lido del Faro, but with no other restaurant in sight, we decided to check it out!
This restaurant ended up being called Bagni di Gradola, and we loved it for its casual, seaside vibes and its breezy authenticity. Family-owned and perched on the cliff, we were the only Americans, and the only English speaking patrons. It was kind of fun that way. We spent the whole afternoon there, sipping white wine with peaches and jumping off the rocks.
When we got back to our hotel, we looked up Lido del Faro just to see where we went wrong. It turns out there are two listings for it on google maps, and one (the one we went to) is wildly incorrect, and nowhere near the other (accurate) location. It was a happy mistake, and we had a wonderful time, but the experience was certainly different than planned. Just a heads up in case you are planning to navigate Capri with your own printed-at-home walking map.
Back in Capri town, we explored the narrow streets and strolled the Piazzetta. We spent one evening at Le Grotelle, and one evening at Aurora. Le Grotelle had a really wonderful ambiance, situated in cave-like rocks near the natural arch. It was quiet and romantic, and they served my favorite pasta of the trip. Aurora was another great spot, located right in town. We got seated outside, and it was absolutely perfect. Glasses clinking, candlelight, and laughter from the street. The waitress urged me to order the pizza, and it was as amazing as she promised! If you are closer to Vermont than Capri, Deirdre at Pane e Salute does this Tuscan style pizza just as beautifully. Delizioso!
We also got gelato twice a day from Gelateria Buonocore. You can easily spot it by the ever-present line, or by following the intoxicating waffle scents floating through the air. It reminded me so much of the Juice Bar on Nantucket, with cones made so fresh they are still warm in your hand. Seriously the best.
Our last day of the entire trip was spent at La Fontelina, and it was every bit as enjoyable as I imagined it would be. The most perfect end to the most perfect holiday.
Until next time, Capri!