Last week, I shared our time in Positano. After leaving that dreamboat of a village, we traveled along the coast to our next destination: Amalfi!
When: September 2015
Where: Amalfi and Ravello, Italy
Stayed: Hotel Santa Caterina
We stayed at Hotel Santa Caterina, which was everything a hotel should be and so much more. Hanging over the cliff, and steeped in history, it was timeless and perfect in every way.
Our room was beautiful, with a balcony we spent many surreal moments on. Drenched in sunshine and ocean breezes.
Much like our time in Positano, we started each morning with the most beautiful breakfast, then took the turquoise-tiled stairs down to the ocean. Depending on the time of day, the water would either be super calm and softly lapping, or completely splashing about with crazy waves. The stormy ambiance was straight out of a Wes Anderson movie.
We enjoyed a couple of long, lazy lunches at Hotel Santa Caterina’s seaside restaurant, Al Mare. The bruschetta was unbelievable, and I couldn’t get enough of their fresh-squeezed limonatas.
For dinners, Da Gemma was a favorite – we had a table looking down on the streets below, and everything we ate was incredible. The crummy photo below is of the crudo/carpaccio/ceviche platter – it was amazing.
Another dinner we enjoyed was Lido Azzurro. With its location right on the water, it provided a front seat to the evening’s fireworks show!
We loved getting gelato for our walks home. Sometimes it was dessert – and sometime it was a digestif post-dessert. When in Italia! Pasticceria Savoia was our favorite spot, and my favorite flavors were the lemon cream and ricotta. Delizioso.
On Matty’s birthday, we hiked to Ravello for the day! It was beautiful and sweaty and just the best. We had the trail to ourselves going up, but there were plenty of people hiking down. I highly recommend traversing the stairs in at least one direction, if you are able, as the views are incredible! We started at our hotel, and walked through Amalfi, taking a slight detour for coffee and perusing.
We then continued onto Atrani, full of colors and shapes.
I especially loved walking through the center of Atrani, with all of its whitewashed walls and beautiful, old doors. Once you are there, the path is easy to Ravello. You just keep going up, up, up!
As soon as we reached Ravello, we skipped into the main piazza, ordered two iced cappuccinos, and wandered all about! We strolled through the prettiest streets, scoped out our dinner spot, and stumbled a pop up gallery featuring Vittorio Abbate’s paintings. Matty and I collect something for our home from each place we visit, and Abbate’s oil on wood pieces were perfect. I chose a painting of a Ravello flower shop, and Matty picked a landscape of the cliffside village. Further down the road, we came across Mimi’s, and it was wood-fired pizza heaven. We were seated in a beautiful garden, surrounded by chubby, harmless bees, and I ordered the pizza of my dreams – also known as the “corniciotta.” It had a ricotta stuffed crust, cherry tomatoes and fresh provola on top. It’s amore!
After lunch, we headed to Villa Cimbrone – and my gosh, was it stunning! Really, truly breathtaking, and probably one of the most gorgeous venues in the world.
After Villa Cimbrone, we wandered through Ravello a bit more, and then started our descent towards Amalfi. The views were just as beautiful on the way down, and we ended the hike with more gelato!
That evening – our last in Amalfi – we showered up and got ready for Matty’s birthday dinner at Rossellini’s. (This time, we had a car drive us up). We got there a bit early for apertifs at the infamous martini bar, and then enjoyed the most special meal under the stars, and on top of the hills.
As our waiter surprised Matty with a candle, the band came over and serenaded us with “tu vuò fa l’americano.” Being avid Talented Mr. Ripley fans, we couldn’t have loved this moment any more.
Until next time, Amalfi!